It's Not About The Destination - It's About The Journey !

From the west side of Wyoming to the east…. Driving up and down and around the hills and mountains for most of the morning, I finally made it to Devils Tower.  I checked into the KOA, which is literally at the gate to this National Monument and headed up the hill to the visitors center.  The tower really is pretty cool close up.  I stopped to listen to the Ranger talking about some of the features of the tower and pointing out a group of climbers who had set out to climb to the top earlier that day.  It was a beautiful afternoon, so I decided to take the 1.3 mile trail that goes around the base.  It is very cool how the tower seems to change as you go around it.  On the way back to the KOA I stopped at Prairie  Dog Town on the road out of the park, and spent about 30 minutes just watching them and taking pictures.  There were deer all over the place and I ended up with a few good pictures of them as well.  Every night the KOA plays the movie “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” and folks bring their lawn chairs and sit around watching.  I wandered over to check it out and ended up pulling up a chair and sat and watched the whole movie.  As crazy as it sounds, it was very cool sitting there watching the movie with Devils Tower right behind the screen, with 20 some odd perfect strangers.  Very good day ! !

I knew that I would have only one day to try and see as much of Yellowstone National Park as I could.  So, I made reservations at a KOA about five miles outside of the West Gate Entrance for the night before.  Up at 5:30 am, I was on my way into the park as the sun was making its way over the horizon.  Another $30 saved with my National Parks pass, and I was off.  I pulled over to check out the park map, and chart a course that would ensure I capitalized on my allotted time, taking into consideration that there is often about 15 and 20 miles between the places I wanted to see.  Alas, as the saying goes, “the best laid plans…” yeah, so my careful and methodical planning fell apart pretty much right away.  The last time I was at Yellowstone, I was 5 years old, my Dad was driving a 28′ Coachman motorhome, and I basically got out and back in when I was told to.  With that being said, I’m sure that if I had been able to stop when ever I saw something interesting in 1973, my family would still be driving aimlessly around the park.  There is just way too much to see and do than a body can actually do in 6 hours.  I suggest you plan a 3-4 day minimum stay, and even then you will not see all the park has to offer.  The geysers are abundant on the west side and it is fascinating to watch as some of them rumble and bubble as if they were motorized.  One of my first stops was Grand Prismatic Springs, a hot springs that displays an array of beautiful colors in its water.  In my rush to get to the park first thing in the morning, I did not take into account that the autumn mornings are about 40 degrees, causing massive amounts of steam to form at the surface of the hot springs and geysers.  I did see Grand Prismatic Springs, and I am almost certain that if it hadn’t been so chilly, I would have been in awe of its beauty.

Oh well, on to Old Faithful, the most famous geyser in the world.  I parked and walked a short distance to the viewing area wondering how long I would have to wait until it erupted again, since it’s about 90 minutes between eruptions.  Score….. I waited about 2 minutes !!  Awesome…. Old Faithful – Check….

Quick stop at the nearest gift shop and I was back on schedule.  Next stop, Mud Volcano, ok, so one wrong turn in 3,468 square miles is allowed, luckily I noticed before I had gone too far.  Yep, Mud Volcano is basically a bunch of mud hot springs that gurgle and bubble with mud, and reek of sulfur.  Pretty cool, even if they are stinky.

Finally made it to Hayden Valley.  The clerk at the gift shop had told me that a bison had died last week and grizzly bears and wolves had been seen eating on the carcass.  No grizzlies or wolves, but lots of bison.

Since I had just been to the actual Grand Canyon last month, I had to stop and see how Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon measured up.  The road going into the parking lot was bumper to bumper so I figured it had to be something special.  I landed a parking spot in the first row (patience actually does pay off sometimes), and headed down the path.  As it turns out, Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon is quite impressive.  There were way to many people there so I grabbed some pictures and then got the heck out of there.

Of all the wonderful things to see it is very difficult to pinpoint just one favorite.  Although my time there was short, I had an amazing time, and will for sure and certain be back.  My next trip to Yellowstone National Park will be much longer, and I can hardly wait ! !

So somewhere in southern Idaho at a rest stop on some road, there is a cool little place called Hell’s Half-Acre Trail.  It is a trail that leads through a volcano bed, with signage along the way explaining how it was formed.  Did you know that Idaho and Hawaii share some of the same features?  Yeah, me neither, that is until I stopped here.  It provided some exercise to stretch my legs after driving for 3 hours straight.

Further North in the Targhee National Forest I stopped at Messa Falls, both Lower and Upper.  It is a bit off the beaten path, but hey, that’s what this whole adventure is all about.  The short hike at the Upper Falls was pretty easy, even with all the stairs.  The temperature that day was perfect, however, with all the fires in nearby Montana, there was a dull grey in the air that blocked, what I’m sure would have been beautiful blue skies.

Having been to western Idaho on a ticket from Uncle Sam, I knew that the state was a diverse landscape and very pretty, but I now have a true appreciation of just how beautiful that state really is.  I will be back to explore more of what Idaho has to offer.

On my way out of California this past Tuesday, I stopped at the Donner Party Memorial State Park in Truckee CA.  I has been over 20 years since I was here so I decided to stop again.  Because it was still early morning, the Visitors Center was not open yet, but I did spend some time walking around the monument and took a stroll down the trail to one of the cabin sites.  If you have never read the book Desperate Passage: The Donner Party’s Perilous Journey West, do so, it is very good.  I can remember reading it before I was ever stationed in California, or knew there was a memorial.  Now, standing in front of the monument, and realizing the snow that winter was over 22 feet deep, it is a miracle that any one survived.  Knowing that some of the survivors were mere children goes to show the inner strength that people possess in difficult times.  Another one of my favorite places in Northern California and I’m glad I had the opportunity to stop.

While I was in Sacramento visiting my friends The Roses, I was fortunate enough to be able to attend a once in a lifetime concert.  Jason Bonham, Cheap Trick, and Foreigner at the Toyota Amphitheatre ! !  The tickets came complete with a back stage tour, VIP hour before the concert, pictures with Foreigner, and Row 2 center seating.  Thank you very much Keith and Nancy.  It was a crazy night. The temperatures had hovered around 110 all day and even the scant shade there was, offered little relief.  I’m not sure if I was in shock from everything, or what, but I feel like the night flew by.  We were escorted to a VIP tent complete with free drinks and hor d’oeuvres designed by lead singer Kelly Hansen, where Kelly himself stopped by to talk about the tour and his recipes.  Not really what I pictured a rock and roll lead singer would chat about, but it was pretty cool.  By the time Jason Bonham was done with his set, the sun had set enough to make the temperature bearable, and when Cheap Trick hit the stage the party was on.  For a group in their age bracket, they put on one heck of a show.  I was very impressed and found myself wishing I knew more of their songs.  Ok, so now it was time for Foreigner, wow, they were pretty amazing.  Mick Jones is a guitar genius.  I thoroughly enjoyed the concert, the whole experience was awesome ! !

Coloma California…. One of my favorite places from when I was stationed at McClellan AFB in Sacramento.  Although the area can seem dry and barren, it is still beautiful to me.  Sutter’s Mill where John Marshall reached down into the trail races of his lumber mill and plucked out the gold nugget that would start the great Gold Rush of 1849 !  A little ways outside of Auburn CA along the winding, twisting route 49 is the tiny town of Coloma.  It has changed a bit in the 20 years since I was last there, but the general feeling is still the same.  A nice quiet little place to spend the day, exploring the river, panning for gold and just wandering around.  The mining town that became the nucleus of the Gold Rush, is but a few buildings now.  The mill has been replaced by a replica and moved back from the banks of the American River.  A few original building remain, but there are plaques designating where prominent building had stood.  I wandered into the Blacksmith shop and spent the next 45 minutes being entertained by the two gentlemen that volunteer there.  When they found out that I had been a Sheet Metal Technician in the Air Force for 20 years they told me that they needed someone like me in the shop and would I want to volunteer.  They asked me a couple questions about different tools and such, which I think was a test to see if I really did know what I was talking about, and were pleasantly surprised when they realized I knew my stuff.  lol….. Ironically, John Marshall died a pauper, never capitalizing on the boom that he started.  A statue sits on a hill overlooking the riverbank of John Marshall pointing to the place where he found the first gold nugget.  I discovered a doe and her twins hanging out in a hedge row in the park.  They are so used to visitors that they payed me no notice as they moved along the trail.

Remarkable, is the only word that came to mind as I stood looking out over the vastness before me at the first view point after entering Grand Canyon National Park.  At $30 per vehicle for seven days, I’m glad I had my National Parks Pass.  Arriving at the Desert View Entrance and inquired how far it was to the Village, the Ranger told me it was about 23 or so miles.  Wow… That definitely starts to put into perspective just how enormous this area is.  I stopped at the Desert View/Watch Tower first and got my first view of the Grand Canyon.  Although there were lots and lots of people, I couldn’t help but have a sense of being alone as I looked out over great expanse of the canyon. Although there are a bunch of view points along the way to the village and lodges, I only stopped at a few as I wanted to get to the village and get the lay of the land where I would be staying for the next couple days.  I am glad I decided to make reservations for 2 nights as there was so much to see I knew I couldn’t have seen it all in one day.  I’m not sure if they took a page from the Disneyland/world book or what, but visiting the Grand Canyon reminded me of going to Disney.  There are shuttle buses that stop at numerous designated spots within the South Rim area.  There are different shuttles depending on which area you wanted to visit.  Although they are definitely the best mode of travel from place to place, they are often very crowded and I had to sometimes wait a couple of buses to get a spot.  I finally got my room after a bit of a wait, and did some exploring.  I knew I had to check in for my scheduled mule trip the next morning, so I headed over to the check in area, where they presented me with a bota bag for water during the trip and gave me my trip instructions.  The next morning I headed over to the mule barn and along with the other guests boarded a bus over to where we would meet our mules.  The guys running the operation were pretty cool, and looked just how I imagined they would.  Divided into two groups we were introduced to our mule friends.  My new friend’s name was Marcy, and she was very cool, as mules go.  No matter how much riding experience we did or did not possess, the guides had to do everything, from helping us mount and dismount, to making sure everyone held the reins exactly so.  Being that I was a party of one, I ended up last in line in group one.  Finally, we were all mounted and on our way, with me bringing up the rear.  Our guide made several stops along the way was a wealth of information concerning the history and geological layout of the canyon, as well as the different species of trees, flowers, and bushes along the canyon rim and their uses.  He also took time at the half way point to take individual pictures of us on our trusty steeds, and then it was time to head back.  I can now relate to how cowboys on cattle drives felt as they rode drag all day, breathing the dust and odors of the animals ahead of them.  By the time I arrived back to my room, I was a dirty, dusty mess, but I think it made the experience all the better.  That afternoon, I hopped on the shuttle bus and headed to Hermit’s Rest.  With about 9 or so stops along the way, I took advantage of the beautiful weather, and walked the Rim Trail between some of the stops, instead of riding with the crowd.  Hermits Rest is the western point on the South Rim and very popular for its beautiful sunsets, however, the buses get extremely crowded and I decided to not stick around with the crowds.  Each view point along the rim presents you with a different view of the canyon and just when you think it can’t get any more amazing, the next one takes your breath away.  In 1973 my family stopped at the Grand Canyon on our way to Alaska.  I was 5 years old and only remember, my Dad parking our motorhome in a gravel parking area and walking up to a view point, taking a picture and then leaving.  Now days, families plan an entire vacation around the Grand Canyon, and I can see why.  The National Parks system has made it a destination instead of a stop along the way.  With so much to do, from the mule rides along the rim, to the multi-day trips down to the canyon floor, hiking, biking, and just relaxing enjoying the view.  Next time I visit, I would like to schedule a trip to the canyon floor, definitely by mule though.  It is a very long 6-9 hour hike down to the bottom.  The Grand Canyon, one of the many highlights of my adventure.

Four Corners Monument – Colorado, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico

After leaving Colorado I headed towards the Grand Canyon.  I couldn’t drive by the only spot in the US were four states meet and not stop.  It is out in the middle of nowhere, about 21 miles or so from the turn off.  It was a nice warm, but very windy day, and the sand would kick up little dust devils every once in a while.  There were quite a few people there and I actually had to stand in line to take a picture of the circle.  I walked through 4 states in a matter of seconds… On all four sides of the main square there were people from the Navajo and Ute tribes selling mostly hand made souvenirs.  They ranged from very intricate necklaces and jewelry to arrows of all sizes, and then there was the pottery.  All of it was very beautiful and I ended up with a few very cool trinkets.

Navajo National Monument

As I continued west, I made a point to stop at the Navajo National Monument in Northeastern Arizona.  Home to Ancestral Puebloans, the Tsegi Phase Villages dates back to AD 1250-1300.  Driving along the back road that leads to the Welcome Center, I was greeted by two free range burros that were taking a dust bath on the side of the road.  As I drew closer they stood up and looked at me as if to say “Hey there, welcome”.  One of the best parts about this place, was the free camping.  It’s a first come first serve type of set-up, but the area is beautiful from all angles so there wasn’t a bad spot in the loop.  After setting up my tent, I drove back to the Welcome Center, and started out on one of the trails that leads to the best viewing area of the village.  It was a nice paved trail out to the overlook, with lots of little lizards running around and tons of different flowers, bushes and trees.  I liked the fact that there were informational plaques along the way, telling how they were used as medicine or crafted into tools and such.  It was not overwhelmingly hot that day, and the walk out and back had been very relaxing, I decided to take another trail that went partway down into the canyon and offered different views of the canyon.  Yep, about half-way down as the trail (which was not paved) became steeper and steeper, it suddenly occurred to me that for every step down, I had to climb back up.  I had my water, and a long sleeve shirt over my t-shirt, so I knew I was ok in that aspect.  However, looking back and seeing just how far down into the canyon I was, made me laugh at the long walk back up that I had to look forward to.  I had been passed on the trail by a couple who I guessed was from Germany.  They flew by me as if they were on a leisurely jog in the park.  I continued on a little way and then decided to head back after taking in some of the awesome views.  Ok, so anybody that knows me, knows that Hobbit runs in my family and my legs are not very long at all. With that being said, the trail going back up is comprised of rocks and boulders that are strategically positioned in areas to produce steps. They are not to standard construction code!  Let’s just say that by the time I reached the trail head, my little hobbit legs were pretty wore out……lol.  Back at my camp site, I staked out my spot for viewing a gorgeous sunset.  I talked with a couple who had been there previously, and we all agreed that this area was beautiful secret, where not many bothered to stop.  If you find yourself in Northeastern Arizona be sure to stop even for a little while.  You won’t be disappointed.

Little Colorado River Gorge

If you are headed for the Grand Canyon from the East, stop at Little Colorado River Gorge.  The entry fee is a simple donation of your choosing.  The views down into the gorge are amazing.  The railing goes right up to the edge, so you are basically looking straight down.  The gorge walls are grey, brown and almost look black in spots, compared to the colorful Grand Canyon. It doesn’t take much imagination to envision the wonder early settlers felt when they stood on the precipice on their trek west.  Again, there were Native Indians selling their wares, and I had a very nice conversation with a couple ladies about the area and their culture.  I spent maybe 30-40 minutes there and then hit the road again towards the Mother of all Canyons, The Grand Canyon ! !

Colorado – What can be said about this beautiful state that hasn’t already been said in song or verse.  Amazing views that seem to go on forever, mountains that touch the clouds.  From Trinidad through Colorado Springs, down to Montrose, up to Telluride, and over to Ouray, my entire stay was breath taking.  I stayed with a good friend from Oklahoma and we had a great time.  We had dinner in Ridgway at the True Grit Café.  It was the setting for some of the scenes in the original movie with John Wayne.  Some of the buildings from the movie are still around town.  That first weekend we took a ride up to Telluride and Mountain Village.  Wow… I can only imagine what that area looks like in the winter.  We rode the free gondola from Mountain Village up to the peak and then over to Telluride, where we walked around the farmers market.  It was pretty different from the ones back home.  Besides the fruits and vegetables, there were Bison burgers and steaks, fresh baked breads of all sorts, and then there were the artists selling their masterpieces.  Back over to Mountain Village, picked up the truck and drove over to the other side of Telluride for a late lunch at Brown Dog Pizza.  It was here that they lost my credit card and spent the better part of 30 mins. looking for it.  My card was located, and we were soon headed back down the mountain.  Whewwww….  I spent the rest of the week, hanging out and sightseeing.  A couple days before I left we went to Ouray.  Awesome little town tucked away in a box canyon.  There were Jeep rental companies located throughout the town, for the off road adventurous type.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to partake in that excitement.  The people of Colorado really are an outdoors sort.  Everything from hiking, and mountain climbing, camping and mountain biking, dirt biking, rafting, and kayaking are just a few of the activities I witnessed.  I was really shocked at how people seemed to build their houses right on a sheer cliff.  Then there are the mines all over the place.  I’m not sure who they paid to climb up there and build the sluiceways and mine shacks that seemed to hang on the side of the mountain.  Whatever it was, it wouldn’t be enough for me.  The valleys in Colorado are just as beautiful as the mountains.  As I traveled west, I couldn’t get over how remarkable the flatlands are.  Stands of trees dotted the horizons, and wild flowers of all sorts lined the roadways.  Every once in a while, I would see an elk or a coyote out in a field.  John Denver really did say it best….. Rocky Mountain High, Colorado.   You really do feel a sense of inner quiet when you are in Colorado….. Will definitely be going back to visit again…

Arrived in Manitou Springs about 3:30 on August 8th.  The drive up through Colorado from New Mexico was amazing.  The mountains just grew and grew.  One minute I was going up and next thing I know it was all down hill, hairpin turns and crazy straight aways.  White knuckle curves and beautiful views made up the majority of my trip that day.  My first experience with Airbnb was a good one.  I stayed at a quaint little motel about 10 minutes from the Pikes Peak Cog Railway station.  Luckily, I had called the day before to reserve a seat, and was able to get one on the 8:00 am trip. I was so excited for my trip to the peak, I was up and ready to go pretty early the next day. They suggested arriving about 30 minutes prior to departure time, but me being me, I showed up with about 50 minutes to spare.  Signs around the depot suggested that riders bring a jacket and plenty of water.  The temperature posted, indicated that where the station was, it was a balmy 72 degrees, however, up at the peak, it was 31 with a 25 degree wind-chill.  I grabbed my jacket a bottle of water, and boarded the train.  As luck would have it, my seat was in the front row of the uphill end of the train.  Which meant, I sat next to the engineer and looked right out the front window.  What a view !!! At 8 mph it took about an hour to get to the top.  Along the way we saw, mule deer, rocky mountain goats, lots of yellow bellied marmots, and tons of different birds.  It is virtually impossible to put into words the scenery that I saw during that trip to 14,115 ft.  Our train car was the first one up top so when we stopped and I stood up and looked out the front window, I was literally looking straight down.  Crazy !  The top was bustling with other tourist who had chose to drive to the top (no thank you), so I hurried inside to grab my Pikes Peak donut.  Yep, it’s a donut made at the top of the mountain.  Not the best donut in the world, but one of those quirky things that you do, just so you can say you ate a donut at 14,000 ft.  Souvenirs in hand I headed outside to call my Dad.  Yes, I had cell service at that altitude, thanks Verizon.  Talking to my Dad from the top of Pikes Peak was one of the only things that he has asked of me throughout my entire adventure.  It was a memorable moment.  Our allotted time up top drawing to an end, I once again took my assigned seat and the trip down began.  It was just as beautiful watching everything go by backwards.  They tell you to drink plenty of water during the trip up and back, because water helps transport oxygen to your bloodstream.  There is definitely some truth to that statement, because you can really feel the changes in atmosphere.  Trip complete, I climbed back into my Jeep and hit the road, looking forward to my next great adventure.  Bucket list item, check ! !